
The Paper Chef #11 Deal
This month's Paper Chef #11 challenge (48 hours using 4 secret ingredients), the Iron Chef equivalent for internet savvy home cooks and professionals alike, is hosted by previous month's winner, Stephen of "What's For Dinner?" (Stephencooks.com). Owen the founding host at Tomatilla is challenging everybody else this time round (until he found out there is no duck). For a bit of extra fun in the judging, Stephen is engaging a panel of food bloggers, which includes the very comical Erica Ferencik of "Wakeup and Smell the Blog", but watch out as there is a scary list of criteria for success.
The Secret Ingredients
The four secret ingredients of duck, nut butter, pear and ginger come with the theme of "Favourite Fall Foods" which reflects the use of the abundant autumn produce from the Northern Hemisphere.
Last autumn's favourite foods included a very warming buttery french onion soup followed by a fusion confit duck dish at award winning Louisa's Restaurant in Bunbury (Western Australia). The occasion was a double birthday celebration. Bunbury was partly devasted by a miniature tornado one day after. From memory, the duck dish comprised fried szechwan or five-spice coated European style confit duck, pecorino cheese, prosciutto, roasted plums, beetroot and salad greens served with a spectacular hoisin drizzle. The taste was an explosion of Northern Chinese and Italian/French flavours.
For Paper Chef #11, it was decided to experiment with the fusion of tastes experienced at Louisa's Restaurant. Alas, it was discovered duck, even though frozen, was a bit rich at AUD$16, ending any plans for confit duck. The next choice of waxed duck (fermented) at about AUD$10 per leg was no better. In the end with budget in mind, it was decided Australian made fermented oriental duck liver sausages (at AUD$6.75 for 375 g) makes a good choice for this months theme: In a bygone era, duck liver sausages were made during autumn and air dried over cold winter months for use in spring as a delicacy when meat was scarce. The salty and mildly sweet duck liver sausage is very pungent and its use, after rendering the fat, is more as a condiment and as a flavouring, very much like using bacon, pancetta or proscuitto.

Not only is the duck "rich", and duck liver sausages just the same, so is nut butter, made from finely milled toasted oil-rich nuts, often with the addition of more oil. Since it is spring in Perth (Western Australia), the season is back to front, leaving some room for re-interpretation of nut butter such as using the healthier autumn butternut pumpkin, as a reverse of nut butter. The more expensive, but low fat, chestnut makes a good substitute for dessert. Dried oriental chestnuts cost only AUD$2.80 per 150 g.
The pear for this entry comes from a jam made last autumn using pear, mandarin, fruit juice and commercial pectin. This jam, which is more of a fruit paste, forms a really versatile base for many sauces, glazes and reductions, particularly for pork, duck, lamb and game.

The final ingredient ginger, a tropical crop, in time past grew only during the hot summers in temperate areas and would be not be available unless dried or in preserved forms like ground ginger or crystallied ginger. For this challenge, logic dictates taste comes first, with preference given to fresh ginger over preserved ginger.
The proposed dishes for Paper Chef #11:
Entree
Butternut pumpkin soup, and duck liver sausage and shiitake tortellini served with a mildly spicy pear and mandarin dressing. The crisp texture and the intense aroma of the tortellini nicely contrast the mild coriander, ginger, butter and caramelised onion flavours of the soup. Peanut or cashew nut butter cream works well with this soup.
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Mains
Shiitake mushroom risotto with white truffle oil, served with a warm salad of bok choy, butternut pumpkin and crispy duck liver sausage dressed with a mildly spicy pear and mandarin reduction. The risotto which utilises red rice, tastes wonderfully complex with rich flavours of duck liver sausage render, shiitake mushrooms, caramelised onion and wine. There's just a subtle hint of ginger.
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Dessert
Chestnut, butternut and gingered custard parfait, served with a pear and mandarin coulis and an exquisite tasting five-spice, ginger and duck liver sausage melba toast. A stylishly presented parfait which balances sweet and saltiness with oriental flavours. The dessert is based on the Italian Monte Bianco, which takes its name from the French Alps, Mont Blanc.
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Parfait Design
The crux of this Paper Chef entry was the unique flavours of the parfait. The interesting thing about the design was the layering of the flavours so as to progress from sweet to savoury or vice versa to enable dipping of the savoury melba toast. It was decided to keep the chestnut vermicelli top sweet using honey (or maple syrup), followed by a sweet and sour pear and mandarin coulis, then a barely sweet gingered custard, and at the end of the parfait, a savoury butternut puree with fennel. In this configuration, the melba toast was eaten last using the butternut as as dip. Chocolate tasting wattleseed, although not used this time, makes a great addition to the chestnut vermicelli for the bush tucker version in the future.
The melba toast was a bit of tongue in check over Owen's suggestion of "peanut butter and jam" will get you nowhere as a Chef entry. Toasted bread ("melba toast"), with ground ginger, toasted duck liver sausage, peanut butter and pear jam (with mandarin), is a valid entry on its own as long as there is creativity!
The Verdict
After 4 hours of intense cooking, it was up to John the "secret reviewer" to pass final judgement on the first two courses. Since John does not eat desserts, the parfait was prepared on the next day.
The beautiful aromas of onions, shiitake and toasted duck liver sausage in the tortellini made the rather sweet butternut soup extra special. A freshly made roasted peanut cream made the soup deliciously smooth. The bok choy and crispy duck liver sausage slices looked wonderful, without the butternut which accidentally ended up pureed with the soup. The butternut in the salad photograph came from the dessert the next day! As for the risotto, the beautiful aromas did not translate too well on the palate, mainly because the dry white wine tasted stale, like acetone, which was really disappointing. Perhaps dry sherry or rice wine should be used instead. Overall the flavours were rather intense and very different although not overly spectacular in combination. The conclusion was that both the entree and mains were edible, with adjustments needed for the latter.
Paper Chef #11 started with a grand vision of a warming soup and delicious confit duck, like what was eaten last autumn during the double birthday celebration. There was also hope that somebody else did the cooking. As with the reversal of seasons with the northern hemisphere, the vision was totally reversed when John the "secret reviewer" pointed out to whom "we" referred when it was announced "we" were doing the Paper Chef #11 challenge since he wasn't doing it. Noodle Cook ended up with the cooking instead of John!
Note: The recipes can be accessed via the hyperlinks below or in the proposed menu.
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